The dernier cri of Vogue Runway Reviews

Ferragamo Spring 2023 Ready-to-wear

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Nicole Phelps over the years:

“In the end, though, the collection didn't quite make a persuasive case to be taken on a par with the brand's lucrative accessories.”

“To be fair, setting a ready-to-wear direction for a label best known for its grosgrain ribbon flats is no easy task.”

“But in the end, its novel charm wasn't enough to rescue this collection from its overbearing beginnings.”

“Cristina Ortiz is doubtless under a great deal of pressure as the new creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, where she replaces Graeme Black, who left the brand to focus on his signature label. The strain showed today.”

“the fit was not only unflattering but often poor; nipple slippage is one thing on the runway, quite another in real life.”

“It's not clear whom Ortiz is targeting with these clothes”

“Toward the end, though, Ortiz couldn't resist flashing some skin. These were ill-considered bits of frivolousness that did nothing but distract”

“Africa was Ortiz's reference point. That led to some rather unflattering jodhpurs cut very generously at the hips […] The show's highlights were […] in the end, it was a case of too little, too late.

“The press notes called Giornetti's muse "an elusive woman," and to be honest we're not sure the boardroom power broker without a bra that he has conjured up here really exists.”

“but neither quite lived up to Ferragamo's impressive legacy.”

“Overall, though, drama was in too short supply here. Rigoni's task for next season will be imbuing his Ferragamo with more soul.”

Why stop here?