The dernier cri of Vogue Runway Reviews

Matty Bovan Spring 2023 Ready-to-wear

vogue runway link

CSM circa early 21stC a carnival of artisan kids making manteaus from plastic clutter and crap. Yardage of fresh textile coiled into entire collections; silhouettes like a crude children sketch materialized with all its curio. We admire the toddler’s collage of glued wooden sticks and crayon handprints as memorabilia of a now forlorn wonder...The school a kind of Dickensian Fashion mill; their ringleader Charles Fredrich Worth high on mercury. This is Bovan’s fête galante, his inherited livery, of Louise Wilson and Louise Gray.

The jean pannier of acid check glitter, neon telephone cord: A nostalgia for the anna piagi harlequinade. Leg’o’mutton Victorian anachronisms of amethyst apple checkers. And despite the cheap corsetry and manufactured printedness (see: Charles Jeffrey), Bovan’s infantile joy remains.