The dernier cri of Vogue Runway Reviews

Stefan Cooke Spring 2023 Ready-to-wear

On their hand sewn embossed pleat fabrication last season: “We’ve been trying to do it for four seasons,” Cooke said. “It took the whole team one week just to do one shirt, everyone shaking trying to get it perfect.” Burt added: “Because if you fuck it up, you have to start all over again.”

This “refinement reinforced by repetition” of painstaking codes, a 2020s demi couture:
Stefan Cooke’s signature pierced-lattice argyle embossed in creamy lacquer. Miniskirts of double-spaced looped ribbon. “Decorticated knitwear” developed through appliqué bows in female equestrian pants. The denim “Napoleonic trompe l’oeil” an antediluvian cording technique of embroidering around faced rope. Found shirts armored by perfectly contiguous sewn paillettes. Denim flat fell seams of a near Junya Watanabe obsession. (missed are the English tweed varsity jackets and scalloped-edge Fair Isle collars)

A millennial Savile Row. Lapidists of cloth